Turks Head Knot
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Description: The Turks Head Knot is based on the ancient symbol for eternity,
the never-ending circle. The woven design this knot features
is typical of the flowing patterns favored by Celtic artisans.
It is perfect for bangle bracelets, headbands and other fashion items. You can
also make a small version to use as a casual ring.
To see a pattern using this decorative knot, check out this Bangle Bracelet.
Variations: This interesting knot can be made in numerous ways. I found 4 different variations that I have included on this page. Each one is slightly different, so be sure to practice all of them. Once you understand the basic concept, try coming up with your own unique designs.
The main thing to remember is that you need to weave through the coils either above or below the crossed areas. That's the key to successfully creating Turks Head knots, and each variation has that element. As you practice, notice how each pattern focusses on creating the crossed areas first. The weaving is then added, which thickens the design.
You can click on the small icons, and larger images will show up in a new window. |
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Single Turks Head |
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| The Single Turks Head knot is simply a type of braiding that makes a continuous loop. Pay close attention to the two elements that all Turks Heads have: Crossing Points and Weaving. After you make this variation, try the following ones so you can see how they are all very similar, even though they look different. |
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Step 1: Obtain an item you can use as a support, such as a glass or a thick dowel. The size of this knot is dependent on the thickness of the support. So if you want to make a ring, for example, a dowel should be used. I used a glass in the example, since I wanted to make a bracelet.
You need one cord, at least 60 inches long. If you plan to double the knot, cut the cord longer. |
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Step 2:
Secure one end of the cord to the
bottom left edge of the support. Wrap the cord around it. Cross
over the first part in the center of it, as you bring it around
again. Direct the end between the two coils already in place. |
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Step 3: Cross
over the right hand coil, and apply tape to secure. The crossing
point should be slightly below and to the right of the first.
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Step 4: Hold
the end of the cord, and direct it through the space above the first cross. You need to weave through it from below,
heading right to left. |
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Step 5: Roll
the support towards you slightly. Just above where you ended
in the last step, pick up the left portion of the cord and
cross it over the right. Then direct the end through the opening
formed, from left to right, coming up into it from below. |
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Step 6: Roll
the support again, and direct the end of the cord into the
space above the cross, entering into it from below.
Tip: Can you see the pattern of the Turks
Head Knot forming? If you always direct
the end into the spaces near the crossing points from below, you can’t go wrong. |
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| Step
7: Repeat Steps 4 thru 6, until you get to the starting
point. Remove the tape. The Turks Head knot is technically finished,
but it looks better if you double or triple it. Just follow
the same path around again, as many times as you feel is necessary. You can use the same cord, or add a second one.
Step 8: When you get to the starting point again,
that’s the best time to finish. Cut the ends so they
lie flat against the inside of the circular knot, and apply glue
to secure them. |
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Woven Turks Head |
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| This variation of the Turks Head Knot has more weaving involved than the previous design. The coils have a pretty interlaced design, typical of all Celtic knots. The ends can be tucked inside if you want to use this knot off the support. Or you can use it as a mounting knot for Macrame projects requiring dowels. |
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Step 1: Start by obtaining one cord, at least 60 inches long. Wrap the cord around the support, so the crossing point is in the front of it. The tail is the portion heading downward, and should be short. You need most of the length in the upper portion. |
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Step 2: Bring the working end around the support, on your left. Direct it under the tail. Bring it up to the area above the crossing point. Pass under the coil on the right. |
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Step 3: Roll the support slightly, so you can see the area below the first cross. The tail should be on the left. There is a second cross just below the first one. Bring the end around the support again, passing into the space between the two crosses. Be sure to pass under the tail. You'll be heading left to right as you accomplish this important step. |
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Step 4: Roll the support again, so you locate the area above the first cross. Direct the end over and under the coils as shown. You're basically passing into the space above the cross, from below. |
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Step 5: Bring the end around the support, on the left. Direct it through the knot, alternating over and under the coils, as you make your way to the right. |
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Step 6: Roll the support so you have access to the area just above where you ended in the last step. It has a distinct crisscross pattern. Pass the working end through the coils, alternating under and over as shown. |
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| Tip: If you look closely, the Over-Under sequence is the opposite of the area just below. That's what causes the interlaced appearance. |
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| Step 7: If you feel the need to add more weaving, you can, but technically you are finished. Tighten the Turks Head knot gradually, one loop at a time. |
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Easy Turks Head |
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| This variation of the Turks Head knot is what I like to call the "Easy" version. The process is actually a shortcut. It's intended to be made around your hand, but I have never been able to accomplish that, so I design it around a dowel. This variation is the best one to use when making Macrame rings. I like to use it for headbands and napkin rings, too. |
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Step 1: You need 1 cord, at least 60 inches long, to practice this Turks Head Knot. The tail should be on the right, behind the support. Wrap the cord around three times. Mentally number the loops, in the reverse order you made them (left to right). |
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Step 2: Pick up loop 2 and push it over loop 3, heading left to right.
See what I mean about the shortcut? You now have two crossing points, which is the hallmark of all Turks Head knots. |
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Step 3: Here's another shortcut: Bring loop 1, which happens to be the working end, to the right of loops 2 and 3. That will make another crossing point in the back of the knot. |
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Step 4: Direct the working end into the space between the two crosses, heading right to left. Pass into it from the top (over-under). |
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Step 5: Roll the support, so you have access to the crossed area that was on the bottom in the last step.
Pass into the space just below the cross, heading left to right. |
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Step 6: Direct the working end to the area where the tail is located. Pass it into the same space, so the two ends are heading in opposite directions.
If you wish to double the Turks Head knot, to make it thicker, add a new cord between the 2 ends. Follow the path all the way through the knot. |
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| Step 7: Tighten the knot gradually. Remove it from the support if you wish, being careful not to disturb the pattern. Tighten it to whatever size you need. The ends can be glued on the inside of the loop. |
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Turks Head Wrap |
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| I like to call this variation the Turks Head Knot Wrap, since it's best used when you want to cover a dowel. The under-over sequence can be changed from what the instructions show, to produce all sorts of designs. |
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Step 1: Secure one end of a 2-yard cord to the dowel, at the left. Wrap the cord around three times, mentally labelling the loops. |
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Step 2: Wrap the working end heading towards the left, passing under the loops to make the crossed areas. |
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This is what the Turks Head knot should look like at this point. |
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Step 3: Start wrapping again, heading back to the right. You need to arrange the cord so it rests in the space just above the crossed areas. This will form additional crossing points. |
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Step 4: Make sure the dowel is positioned so you are facing the front. You can tell the difference by the fact that the tail is taped in the front.
Bring the working end around the dowel, and into the space between the two crossed areas, close to the right end (Loop 3). You'll be heading right to left. |
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Step 5: Bring the cord around the dowel, heading straight down. The end should come out between the coils. There are four of them, so there should be 2 on each side of the working end. |
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Step 6: Direct the end under and over the 2 coils that are to the left of where it came out in the previous step. |
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Step 7: Bring the end over to the next set of coils, which were originally labelled #2. The cord should still be on an angle, so you go through that area just above the two crossing points. Pass over one coil and under the next. |
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Step 8: Do the same thing you did in step 5. Bring the end around the dowel, coming out straight down from where you started, between the crossed coils. |
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Step 9: The next step is to direct the end to the final area on the far left. You need to find the crossed area and pass the end into the space above it. Go over one coil and under the next. |
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| Step 10: You can now start at the tail, and follow the path of the cord, doubling the knot. Or you can simply push all the coils together and leave it as a single knot. Tuck the ends under the coils so they can't be seen, or use them to make other knots. |
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