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Turks Head Knot

Description: The Turks Head Knot is based on the ancient symbol for eternity, the never-ending circle. The woven design this knot features is typical of the flowing patterns favored by Celtic craftsmen. It is perfect for bangle bracelets, headbands and other fashion items. You can also make a small version to use as a casual ring.

To see a pattern using this decorative knot, check out this Bangle Bracelet.

Variations: This interesting knot can be made in numerous ways. I found 4 different variations that I have included on this page. Each one is slightly different, so be sure to practice all of them. Once you understand the basic concept, try coming up with your own unique designs.

The main thing to remember is that you need to weave through the coils either above or below the crossed areas. That's the key to successfully creating Turks Head knots, and each variation has that element. As you practice, notice how each pattern focusses on creating the crossed areas first. The weaving is then added, which thickens the design.

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Single Turks Head

The Single Turks Head knot is simply a type of braiding that makes a continuous loop. Pay close attention to the two elements that all Turks Heads have: Crossing Points and Weaving. After you make this variation, try the following ones so you can see how they are all very similar, even though they look different.

Step 1: Obtain an item you can use as a support, such as a glass or a thick dowel. The size of this knot is dependent on the thickness of the support. So if you want to make a ring, for example, a dowel should be used, the diameter of your finger. I used a glass in the example, since I wanted to make a bracelet.

You need one cord, at least 60 inches long. If you plan to double the knot, cut the cord to at least 120 inches.

Step 2: Secure one end of the cord to the bottom left edge of the support. Wrap the cord around, from the front to the back. Bring the end to the front again, crossing over in the center. Mentally label that "crossing point A".

Step 3: Bring the working end to the back of the support. When you bring it to the front again, cross over the portion of the cord that rests to the right of the secured tail. Call that 'crossing point B".

Step 4: Direct the working end around the support again. When you bring it to the front, roll the whole thing towards you slightly. Locate the area above crossing point A, and direct the end through it. Pass under the right portion of the cord, and over the left, so you go into the space from below.

Step 5: Roll the support towards you again. Just above where you ended in the last step, pick up the left portion of the cord and cross it over the right. Then direct the end through the opening formed, from left to right, coming up into it from below. The arrow shows the direction of the working cord.

Step 6: Roll the support again, and direct the end of the cord into the space above the cross you just made, entering into it from below.

Tip: Can you see the pattern of the Turks Head Knot forming? If you always direct the end into the spaces near the crossing points from below, you can’t go wrong.

Step 7: Repeat Steps 4 thru 6, until you get to the starting point. Remove the tape. The Turks Head knot is technically finished, but it looks better if you double or triple it. Just follow the same path around again, as many times as you feel is necessary. You can use the same cord, or add a second one.

Step 8: When you get to the starting point again, that’s the best time to finish. Cut the ends so they lie flat against the inside of the circular knot, and apply glue to secure them.

Woven Turks Head

This variation of the Turks Head Knot has more weaving involved than the previous design. The coils have a pretty interlaced design, typical of all Celtic knots. The ends can be tucked inside if you want to use this knot off the support. Or you can use it as a mounting knot for Macrame projects requiring dowels.

Step 1: Start by obtaining one cord, at least 60 inches long. Wrap the cord around the support, so the crossing point is in the front of it. The tail is the portion heading downward, and should be short. You need most of the length in the upper portion. Mentally label the crossed area "A".

Step 2: Bring the working end around the support, on your left. Direct it under the tail. Bring it up to the area above the crossing point. Pass under the coil on the right.

Step 3: Roll the support slightly, so you can see the area below the first cross. The tail should be on the left, and the working end should pass under it. There is a second cross just below the first one. Bring the end around the support again, passing into the space between the two crosses, from below. The end should be heading left to right as you accomplish this important step.

Step 4: Roll the support again, so you locate the area above cross #1. Direct the end over and under the coils as shown. As in the other Turks Head patterns, you end up passing into the space from below.

Step 5: Bring the end around the support, on the left. Direct it through the area between two crossing points, alternating over and under the coils, as you make your way to the right.

Step 6: Roll the support so you have access to the area just above where you ended in the last step. It has a distinct crisscross pattern. Pass the working end through the coils, alternating under and over as shown.

Tip: If you look closely, the Over-Under sequence is the opposite of the area just below. That's what causes the interlaced appearance.

Step 7: If you feel the need to add more weaving, you can, but technically you are finished. Tighten the Turks Head knot gradually, one loop at a time.

Quick Turks Head

This variation of the Turks Head knot is what I like to call the "Quick" version. The process is actually a shortcut. It's intended to be made around your hand, but I have never been able to accomplish that, so I design it around a dowel. This variation is the best one to use when making Macrame rings. I like to use it for headbands and napkin rings, too.

You need 1 cord, at least 60 inches long, to practice this Turks Head Knot.

Step 1: The tail should be on the right, secured behind the support. Wrap the cord around three times. Mentally number the loops, in the reverse order you made them (left to right).

Step 2: Pick up loop 2 and push it over loop 3, heading left to right.

See what I mean about the shortcut? You now have two crossing points, which is the hallmark of all Turks Head knots.

Step 3: Here's another shortcut: Bring loop 1, which happens to be the working end, to the right of loops 2 and 3. That will make another crossing point in the back of the knot.

Step 4: Direct the working end into the space between the two crosses, heading right to left. Pass into it from the top (over-under).

Step 5: Roll the support, so you have access to the crossed area that was on the bottom in the last step.

Pass into the space just below the cross, heading left to right, from the top (over-under).

Step 6: Direct the working end to the area where the tail is located. Pass it into the same space, so the two ends are heading in opposite directions.

If you wish to double the Turks Head knot, to make it thicker, add a new cord between the 2 ends. Follow the path all the way through the knot.

Step 7: Tighten the Turks Head knot gradually. Remove it from the support if you wish, being careful not to disturb the pattern. Tighten it to whatever size you need. The ends can be glued on the inside of the loop.

Turks Head Wrap

I like to call this variation the Turks Head Knot Wrap, since it's best used when you want to cover a dowel or handle. The under-over sequence can be changed from what the instructions show, to produce all sorts of designs.

Step 1: Secure one end of a 2-yard cord to the dowel, at the left. Wrap the cord around three times, mentally labelling the loops.

Step 2: Wrap the working end around the dowel, heading towards the left, passing under the first three loops to make the crossed areas.

This is what the Turks Head knot should look like at this point. I put an "X" at each crossing point, so the next step makes more sense to you.

Step 3: Start wrapping again, heading back to the right. You need to arrange the working end so the new loops are to the left of the first ones. Make sure it also rests in the space just above the first set of crossing points, which are marked. This produces more crossed areas, which are indicated by a "Z".

Step 4: Make sure the dowel is positioned so you are facing the front. You can tell the difference by the fact that the tail is taped in the front.

Bring the working end around the dowel on the right, and into the space between the two crossed areas. Pass over the first coil and under the second one as shown.

Step 5: Bring the cord around the dowel, heading straight down. The working end should come out between the coils. There are four of them, so there should be 2 on each side of the working end.

Another way to look at it is that the end is lined up with the first crossing point (X).

Step 6: Direct the working end under and over the 2 coils that are to the left of where it came out in the previous step. The area you are looking for is just below the first crossing point, which is labeled with an "X".

Step 7: Bring the end over to the next set of coils, which were originally labelled #2. The cord should still be diagonal, so you go through the area between the crossing points. Pass over one coil and under the next, so you come out just above the second crossing point, labeled "Z".

Step 8: Bring the working end around the dowel, and straight down from where you started, between the crossed coils. There should be two on either side.

Pass the end through the coils which rest below and to the left of the lower crossing point, under and over as shown. This is just like step 6.

Step 9: The next step is to direct the working end to the final area on the far left. You need to find the crossed areas and pass the end into the space between them. Go over one coil and under the next.

Step 10: You can now start at the tail, and follow the path of the cord, doubling the knot. Or you can simply push all the coils together and leave it as a single knot. Tuck the ends inside the Turks Head Knot Wrap so they can't be seen, or use them to make other knots.

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