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 Locking Patterns


Straight Lock

Daisy Lock

Cross Lock





Straight Lock


Daisy Lock


Cross Lock



 
Description:   Locking Patterns were often used in the past to make Macrame Nets.  I found these three interlocking designs in a book written in 1903. 

One is called the Cross Lock, and features a crisscross pattern.  It's meant to be tied in horizontal or circular rows.

Another is called the Straight Lock, and it's not as busy as the other two.  This one is often used in Hammock designs.

The Daisy Lock is also called the Crazy Daisy (seriously).  It's usually tied in a vertical row with a limited number of cords.  So it's the best one to use for belts and bracelets. 

These decorative knot patterns look better with at least 1-inch of space between the rows, so the crossed elements can clearly be seen.

Make sure you know how to tie Square Knots.
 



 
Cross Lock Pattern

Straight Lock



The Straight Lock is the easiest of all three Locking Patterns shown. 

Focus on the two working cords coming from the center group, because those are the ones you will use to form the crossed elements (see step 3).


6 cords

Step 1: You need 6 cords folded in half, or 12 individual cords secured at the top of your board.

Place them into 3 separate groups of 4, and mentally number them 1 - 12. 

Tie 1 Square Knot with each group of 4 cords. Make sure they line up.  



Design Tip:   Locking Patterns need to have straight rows. 

You can place tape on your board and line up the knots along one edge of the tape.



First Row

Step 2:   Identify the fillers for each set of cords (numbered 2, 3, 6, 7, 10, and 11).

Identify cords 4, 5, 8, and 9.  These 4 cords will be crossed in the next step. 



The over - under sequence of all Locking Patterns is important, so pay close attention to the following steps:



Cross Cords

Step 3:  From the center group, locate cord 5 and pass it under cord 4, moving it to the left.  

Pass cord 8 under cord 9, and move it to the right.

Cords 4 and 9 should rest next to the 2 filler cords in the center (6 and 7).



Step 3, continued:  Tie the Square Knots in the row 2 as follows, starting with the center group.  Leave at least 1 inch of space between the two rows of SK.

  • Center SK --Cords 4, 6, 7, 9   (fillers are 6 - 7)
  • Left SK --Cords 1 - 3 + cord 5  (fillers are 2 - 3)
  • Right SK --Cords 8 + 10 - 12   (fillers are 10 - 11)



Step 4:  Move the two working cords in the center group again, passing cord 4 under cord 5.

Pass cord 9 under cord 8.  (see image below)


Next Row


Tie the third row of SK as follows:
  • Center SK -- Cords 5 - 8
  • Left SK -- Cords 1 - 4
  • Right SK -- Cords 9 - 12



Important:  The direction of the crossings for Locking Patterns is very specific.  The cords change places, so it's easy to get lost.

Just remember that the 2 working cords from the center group should ALWAYS rest under those coming from the left and right groups. 



Repeat

Step 5:  Repeat steps 3 and 4 at least one more time, since Locking Patterns are supposed to be panels with straight edges.
 




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Daisy Lock

Daisy Lock



Locking Patterns can have interesting names. This one is called the Daisy Lock, or Crazy Daisy, because the design resembles the petals of a flower.

You need 6 individual cords or 3 folded cords in 3 groups (total of 18).  Secure the cords at the top of your board.

In the images, the black cords are the fillers in each group, and you add two others when tying the SK, for a total of 4 fillers per knot.  

The crossings are made with 4 cords on each side of the center group.



Three Knots

Step 1: Tie one Square Knot in each set of 6 cords.  There are two working cords for each set (1, 6, 7, 12, 13 and 18).     Make sure the knots line up.  

Label cords 5 - 8 on the left, and 11 - 14 on the right.



Helpful Tip:  Locking Patterns can be confusing.   Apply small pieces of tape to the 8 cords you will be crossing, and write their numbers on the tape.

Focus on the 4 cords coming from the center knot, since they are the ones doing the weaving. (see arrows)



Crossed Areas

Step 2:   Move cord 7 under - over cords 6 and 5 as you position it on the left.

Move cord 8 over - under cords 6 and 5, and place it on the left, too.

Cords 5 and 6 should rest near cords 9 - 10 (fillers).



Step 2, continued:  Move cord 12 over - under cords 13 and 14.  Position it on the right. 

Move cord 11 under - over cords 13 and 14, and place it on the right, too. 

Cords 13 and 14 should rest near cords 9 - 10.



Center SK

Step 3:  The SK in the center is tied first.  

The working cords are 5 and 14.  The fillers are 6, 9, 10 and 13.

There should be at least 1-inch of space between this knot and the one above it.   



Step 3, continued:  Tie the SK on the left with 1 - 4 + 7 and 8.  The working cords are 1 and 8.  The remaining 4 are the fillers.

Tie the SK on the right with 11 and 12 + 15 - 18.  The working cords are 11 and 18, and the rest are fillers.


Design Tip:  Locking Patterns look best if the crossed cords are slightly taut.  Securing each knot will keep the edges straight.



Next Cross

Step 4:  Cross cord 5 from the center under - over cords 8 and 7.

Cross Cord 6 over - under cords 8 and 7.

Cross cord 14 over - under cords 11 and 12.

Cross cord 13 over - under cords 11 and 12.



Repeat

Step 5:  Locking Patterns always return to the original groups every other row.  Tie the SK as follows:
  • Center SK:  Working cords are 7 and 12
  • Left SK:  Working cords are 1 and 6
  • Right SK:  Working cords are 13 and 18


(Optional)  You can stop here, or continue on, repeating steps 2 - 5.




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Cross Lock

Cross Lock



Locking Patterns can look very similar to each other.  This Cross Lock pattern looks like the Daisy Lock, but it doesn't have the extra filler cords. 

So this pattern can stretch, which is why it's used in Macrame patterns where you want to enlarge an area, but don't want to add more cords. 


4 Groups

Step 1:  You need 8 cords folded in half or 16 individual cords.  Arrange them into 4 groups (A - D).

Tie a Square Knot in each group of 4 cords, and mentally number each group as shown.



For the previous Locking Patterns you mentally numbered each cord.  Here you are numbering each group, since it's easier to focus on one group at a time.

The cords doing the weaving are the same for each group (3 and 4). 



Cords 3 and 4

Step 2:  Move cord 4 (group A) over - under cords 1 and 2 (group B), and place it to the right.

Move cord 3 under - over cords 1 and 2 and place it to the right, too.

Cords 1 and 2 from groups A and B should be resting on the left when you are finished weaving.



Group B

Step 3:  Move to the right and use the cords from groups B and C:

Weave cord 4 over - under cords 1 and 2 (group C), and position it on the right.

Weave cord 3 under - over cords 1 and 2, and move it to the right as well.



Group C


Step 4: 
Repeat the process again, weaving cords 3 and 4 from group C to the right, passing through cords 1 and 2 from group D.  

The over - under patterns is the same as the the last two steps.




Square Knots

Step 5:  Tie the second row of Square Knots:
  • Cords 1 - 2 from groups A and B
  • Cords 3 - 4 from group A and 1 - 2 from group C
  • Cords 3 - 4 from group B and 1 - 2 from group D
  • Cords 3 - 4 from groups C and D



Repeat

Step 6:  Repeat steps 2 - 5 one more time. 

Locking Patterns are usually tied with several rows.




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Have any comments about the Locking Patterns? Contact Me.



 
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